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Democracy and Tasty Treats at Faneuil Hall

Bostons Faneuil Hall, which has been nicknamed The Cradle of Liberty, hosted
Americas first political town meeting. Since its construction by French Huguenot
merchant Peter Faneuil in 1742, the hall has served as a shelter for sheep, a lively
marketplace, and a center for free speech.

From the start, the halls activities have been divided by floor. The first floor briefly held
African sheep herded from New Hampshire; a sheep shortage soon brought that program
to a halt. Since 1748, the first floor has served as a public marketplace; Peter Faneuil
encouraged pushcart vendors to permanently set up shop. The second floor has long
featured the meeting hall, though it was briefly converted a theater during the British
occupation of 1774.
The first public meeting held at Faneuil was actually on the occasion of Peter Faneuils
death; his eulogy was read at the hall. Revolutionaries later used the site to protest King
Georges taxes and to pen the famous doctrine concerning no taxation without
representation. Following the Boston Massacre, the public filled the hall to capacity to
discuss the event. The patriot orator Samuel Adams gave an impassioned speech, and two
years later, he would there initiate the first Committee of Correspondence. That meeting
of colonial representatives is commonly considered the beginning of the American
Revolution. Today, a statue of Sam Adams stands outside the Hall.
As time went on, Faneuil Hall continued to be a popular political forum. Suffragist Lucy
Stone and abolitionists such as Frederick Douglass and William Lloyd Garrison drew
crowds in the 1800s. In the past century, Ted Kennedy and Bill Clinton have helped it
maintain the Cradle of Liberty nickname.
Architecturally, Faneuil Hall has undergone several expansions and restorations. First,
the entire building was razed in a 1761 fire. It was quickly rebuilt in time to hear early
revolutionaries speeches in 1762. Next, the building was significantly expanded in 1806.
Americas first native-born architect, Charles Bulfinch, doubled the halls height and
width. He added galleries around the second floor assembly room and added a third floor.
Twenty years later, additional construction expanded the Quincy Market. This meat and
produce market had been drawing more and more vendors and customers. By the mid-
1900s, however, the building had fallen into disrepair and was losing public interest.
Major restoration saved Faneuil Hall in the 1970s. This urban renewal was among the
first in American cities and inspired other projects nationwide.

One architectural element that has remained constant is a 38-pound gilded copper
grasshopper! Its the centerpiece of the buildings weathervane. Peter Faneuil
commissioned an artist to create this grasshopper; he was inspired by one that sat atop the
Royal Exchanges pinnacle in London. Thus, for colonial merchants the Faneuil Hall
weathervane was a symbol of Old World commerce. The grasshopper became so well-
known to northerners that when someone suspected a spy during the Revolution, theyd
ask, What sits atop Faneuil Hall? Those who didnt know were deemed likely British
agents.

Todays Faneuil Hall Marketplace refers to a group of four buildings: Faneuil Hall,
Quincy Market, North Market and South Market. The marketplace has pubs, restaurants,
and more than 125 vendors offering a wide variety of food and crafts. Each year more
than 15 million people visit the market. The popular landmark is listed on the National
Register of Historic Places and is now part of Boston National Historical Park.

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Olvera Street: A Taste of Old Mexico

Olvera Street, or La Placita Olvera, is the quaint birthplace of modern Los Angeles. This
block-long street has now been restored to an old-fashioned marketplace and plaza
reminiscent of early Mexico. The street and plaza were designated El Pueblo Historic
Monument in 1953.

Olvera Street attracts two million tourists every year. The area is blocked to automobiles
so pedestrians can easily explore the streets 27 historic buildings. These include a range
of authentic Mexican eateries, including the citys oldest Mexican restaurant, La
Golondrina Caf. Some of the buildings are rented to merchants selling Mexican goods.
Some stores stock inexpensive souvenirs like finger puppets, marionettes, and tiny
Mexican flags. Others import high-quality Mexican pottery, silver, and textiles. Vendors
stationed in the middle of the street sell churros, souvenirs, and inexpensive childrens
toys.

While Olvera Street is a tourist attraction, its also the center of an authentic Mexican-
American community. Locals gather for a Las Posadas reenactment before each
Christmas, and they fill the site for celebrations like Cinco de Mayo and Da de los
Muertos. The Olvera plaza also features cultural performances throughout the year.

The street began as part of a town built by settlers in 1781. Spains King Carlos III
ordered his Lieutenant Governor of California, Don Fernando de Rivera y Moncada, to
lead settlers to the Porcincula River. The King wanted a sub-mission, or asistencia; the
Spanish soldiers and families would serve as missionaries to a nearby native village. The
group followed the Kings orders, but flooding pushed them to settle on higher ground.
This was the beginning of the town they called Los Angeles or, more formally, El
Pueblo de Nuestra Seora Reina de los ngeles sobre El Rio Porciuncula. (This
translates to Town of Our Lady Queen of the Angels on the Porcincula River. Today
the river is known as the Los Angeles River). The first streets and adobe buildings of Los
Angeles were constructed during Spanish rule, which lasted until 1820.

After the Mexican Revolution of 1821, the town of Los Angeles, population 650, became
part of a newly independent Mexico. Olvera Street, which was called Calle Vino (Wine
Street) at the time, was the center of community life and a crossroads for the agricultural
and ranching economies. By 1877, the city had grown to over 5,000 people and wanted
more street space. Wine Street was extended and renamed to honor a prominent
neighborhood resident, Los Angeles County Judge Agustin Olvera.

City growth was suddenly exponential. But as the city grew, its center deteriorated.
When new buildings were erected, their backs bordered Olvera Street. It began to look
like an unkempt alley, and then the city built a noisy power station there for streetcars.
The area was far from its glory days by the late 1920s, when a socialite would make
renovation her mission.

Christine Sterling arrived in Los Angeles in 1926. She was shocked to find the citys
historic center dilapidated and abandoned with boarded windows. Even the historic Avila
Adobe, the oldest residence in Los Angeles, was scheduled for demolition. (Seora Avila
had abandoned the home in 1847 when the United States occupied Los Angeles.)
Considering the citys steady stream of Mexican immigration, Sterling thought Los
Angeles was being short-sighted in destroying an historic Mexican area. It seemed only
natural that the area be restored.

Sterling contacted Avilas descendents, who welcomed the offer of renovation. She
raised the issue with the citys Chamber of Commerce and contacted The Los Angeles
Times. Sterling won the support of newspaper magnate Harry Chandler, who provided
positive publicity. He also formed a for-profit Olvera Street business venture and
sponsored a $1000-a-plate luncheon. Sterling raised funds within two years, and the Los
Angeles Health Department rescinded its condemnation order for the Avila Adobe!

Next, the Sheriffs Department brought inmates to provide manual labor. Sterling wrote
in her diary, One of the prisoners is a good carpenter, and another an electrician. Each
night I pray they will arrest a bricklayer and a plumber.

The festive new marketplace opened on Easter Sunday in 1930. It was touted as A
Mexican Street of Yesterday in a City of Today. A cross was erected at one end of the
street amid newly-planted trees.

Olvera Street is open daily from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Some restaurants and shops have
extended hours.

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Hawaiian Luau

No Hawaiian vacation would be complete without attending a luau. The word luau really just means a party or a celebration. Typically in ancient Hawaiian culture luaus were given to celebrate the birth of a child or a wedding. These days the word luau has become a household name all across the United States. When we think of a luau today, we think of those cheap plastic lays and those silly plastic tiki cups. Oh, but a luau is so much more. In Hawaii there are two basic types of luau. The first type closely resembles that of the original type of luau. This is a private gathering of friends and family for a celebration.

The second type of luau is a commercial luau open to the public and what we tourists typically visit. While in the state of Hawaii there will be many different luaus to choose from. They are basically all the same, with a few different high points. Arriving guests are greeted with a fresh flower leu. The entertainment is usually choreographed and top notch, complete with hula dancers and fire eaters. Sometimes the guests provide some of the entertainment themselves. It’s always fun watching grown men wear hula skirts and try to learn this complicated dance. There are different options for food and drink as well. I myself prefer the open bar type. The food is usually a buffet, consisting of a roasted pig or perhaps some sort of roast beef, rice, and of course the Hawaiian staple…pineapple.

I have to mention some of the best known luaus and those with the best reputation. While in Maui, the Old Lahaina Luau is the one not to be missed. This is the most authentic Luau on the island. The hula dancers are superb and the food is of the highest quality. The other luaus available in Maui are usually done at the resorts and lack the realism of Old Lahaina. Because of it’s popularity, the Old Lahaina Luau does require reservations. In fact, I would recommend that you make your reservations before you even leave for Hawaii.

While visiting the big island, again there are a plethora of options to choose from. Kona seems to be a popular town for the luau. King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel offers a Luau with a shell lei greeting, and a torch lighting ceremony. Check with the hotel for luau days. On the mornings of luaus spectators can watch the hotel staff bury the pig in the sand and begin roasting.

The island of Kaui offers a couple of luau’s of its own. Both the Radisson Kauai Beach Resort and the Kilohana Plantation have nice luaus complete with open bars, fire eaters and of course, hula dancers.

Whichever island or islands you choose to visit while in Hawaii, a Hawaiian luau is a must. Whether the gorgeous hula girls are your thing (scantily clad Polynesian dancers for the ladies) or you are just there for the food, a luau is sure to please.

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